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Thread: 240sx S13 COUPE CHASSIS + FULL PART OUT - built ka, z32 trans, full susp, etc.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004

    240sx S13 COUPE CHASSIS + FULL PART OUT - built ka, z32 trans, full susp, etc.

    s13 rust free chassis from Gerogia - $200 - I paid $200 for brand new front windshield to be installed last summer (still has sticker on it). Price is for the windshield, rust free chassis free with purchase. Has aftermarket sunroof and framing but no glass.
    Fidanza Aluminum flywheel - bought used, but bought/installed a new surface/friction plate insert. Some of the threads for the clutch were a little funny so I chased the threads. You can use it as is, or drill/tap any "iffy" threads one size larger (I considered doing this myself for safety, but figured it'd hold. you're call, but this is reflected in price) - $60
    Competition clutch - 6 puck unsprung. I thought the pedal feel was only slightly increased and was still very drivable (but I enjoy stiff clutches). Bought it slightly used, so mileage unknown. I only used it for a couple pulls, plenty of life. - $150
    ACT Clutch - 6 puck spring, not the heavy duty plate, was really lightly used, I cant find it but if you're interested I'll dig harder. I know I never sold the damn thing - $120
    S13 stock transmission - somewhere ~150,000miles, about 5000 of those miles with 7psi/250whp, only 1 drift event in that time - $100
    Clutch slave cylinder - bought new a couple years ago, I'll have to check to see if its aftermarket or OEM. Barely used. - $15
    Clutch master cylinder - original s13 from this car, still works - $25
    SPL parts stainless braided clutch line - bought in 04 or 05, don’t remember what I paid - $30?
    Stock s13 5sp Trans Crossmember - $40
    Stock trans mount - $20
    Z32 5 speed transmission - pulled from junkyard, I forget mileage. Bellhousing machined to accept adapter plate to KA. New rear oil seal as preventative measure (did it before I ever put oil in it). - $325
    KA to z32 trans adapter plate - bought from user on ~5+ years ago, was told it was mazworx but got it and it is a copy (used english bolts, not metric). Dowel pins were in wrong spot, so I removed them. It is tricky to line up, but just have to wiggle the trans while inserting and everything lines up and bolts together without forcing anything. - $150
    Modified trans crossmember - for z32 trans on KA in s13. Cut, relocated, welded, and added reinforcements to the stock member - $60
    Aluminum driveshaft - 1 piece, for SR or KA with z32 trans in s13. - $325
    xcessive mfg solid shifter mount - great for installing this trans in any chassis- $125
    Stock z32 shifter with BRAND NEW OEM bushings - I don’t know why people say this trans shifts like crap, maybe because everyone uses the crappy aftermarket shifter from Mazworx? This shifter feels amazing! Nice and tight like when I had B&M on stock trans, but without the additional "trans breaking" leverage. I wouldnt run this trans with any other shifter. - $55
    Driveshaft center bearing supports - $10
    S13 driveshaft - manual non-abs - $65
    Clutch lever arm that goes in s13 trans - $15
    s13 hardened pivot point for inside trans - bought from SPL a long time ago - $15
    Flywheel - stock s13 will need resurfacing due to surface rust? - $15

    KAAZ 2-way - bought in 2003. This is the old version, SUPER LOUD (sounds nasty and I love it!). Had it professionally installed by a local shop. Always used Kaaz oil. ~5000 miles on it total, 1 event. Currently in pumpkin with fresh KAAZ oil.
    Rear half shafts - stock - $60 each
    5 bolt output shafts - 2 w marking for abs sensor, 2 without. I forget where I got these but can figure it out if you need something like this - $10 each
    1 brand new axle boot - I don’t know where this came from, but has bag with new metal zip ties with it - $10

    KTS Coilovers - bought from SPL parts, but they stopped distributing for KTS now. High quality (made in Japan) similar to Stance, but I bought these before Stance was making 240 coilovers. A friend overtightend a front camber plate to chassis bold and snapped it, should be replaceable with a part from Stance. REAR HAS MOUNT FOR Z32 ALUMINUM UPRIGHTS, COILOVERS WILL COME WITH REAR Z32 KNUCKLE, AND INTERNAL PARKING BRAKE WITH LINES. - $900
    Stance front springs - 8k same as spl, same rate but shorter free length, pic of car is using these in front - $60 or FREE if purchased with KTS at original price
    KYB GR-2 Shocks w Tein Lowering Springs - used, seem to be in good shape/light usage, but miles unknown - $300
    s14/s13? Stock Suspension - pretty sure its s14 front and s13 rear IIRC? Good for moving car around garage, painting, etc. Ill find out if youre interested - $75
    Nismo power brace - for s13- $100
    Kazama t/c tension rods - bought ~2004ish, no rusting/stuck together threads/nuts/etc. - $150
    HICAS front sway bar - larger than stock, but not lower than stock (switched back to this after whiteline front) - $75
    BOXED s14 front lower control arms with press-in Megan bushings - Boxed with a decent wall material (these things are heavy, meant to take abuse on the street!). Has s13 ball joints installed for the knuckles. For more angle it would still need to have relief cut/welded for tie rod end. - $120
    Polyurethane s14 FLCA bushings - pretty sure theyre energy suspension but cant remember (know for sure they arent China crap, cause I remember I didnt want to use Megans but couldnt get around it). I think these were supposed to re-use the cup or something and that’s why I needed the Megans for the arms above - $15
    Dimpled cutouts for boxing FLCA - bought from duder on ziptied, but never used. They are thinner, but dimples make them strong. Given the weight of the arms I boxed myself, prolly shoulda used these. Cant remember if theyre s13/s14 specific or good for both. - $25
    POWERED BY MAX/PSM S13 knuckles - mounted, did a couple pulls, that’s it. Never even got a chance to drift with them. Practically new. $365
    Attain 5 lug front hubs - ~5000 miles, bought back in 2004, feel great, nice and tight. These were one of the only options available when I bought these. - $325
    Rear 5 lug hubs - stock nissan z32 from na model (works w s13 axles), mileage unknown, worked fine no play. - $100
    MODDED CROSSMEMBER - rack is moved as forward as possible without breaking the rules (1 face of crossmember left in tact). I spent a lot of time making sure everything was perfectly squared up when I did this. Will come with extended lower section of steering input shaft _ $250
    Steering rack - stock, no leaks, no bent/damaged hard lines - 100$
    Bushings for rack to crossmember - I cant remember if these are used, new oem, or poly. I thought I did poly but cant recall. If youre interested I'll pull em and check. - $10
    Solid bushing for steering shaft - aluminum piece to replace stock bushing in center of steering column - $10
    Inner tie rod spacer - to allow for more rack travel and extend tie rod length. Bought from that George dude. Typically use 1 and recenter the rack. I bought 2, incase I needed them. Never used. - $50 each
    S13 stock tie rods and ends - pair pulled off original car - $20
    Moog s14 inner tie rods - never used in box. - $30 for the pair
    PBM S14 inner tie rods - these things are beefy. Bought last year, mounted but no drifting/events - $70
    Moog s14 outer tie rods - bought same time as PBM inners - $35 for the pair
    SPL s14 adjustable outer tie rods - got these a long time ago, they sent me a bunch of stuff when they did updates, so I got a couple shanks, various spacers, etc. $200
    SPL adjustable RUCA rear upper control arms - not the new titanium versions. Used ~ 3000 miles, 1 event, never in dirt/rain/snow - $250
    Adjustable rear toe rods China/Ebay - bought beefiest I could find back around 2006? Ran them with a boot around the heim joints to protect from dirt, sale will not include the boot. - $55
    S13 RLCA - good condition. I think I painted them black, over the stock paint. I don’t know what I was thinking, it was 2003. - $35 each
    Spare s13 RLCA pair - $25 each
    S13 rear traction rod - stock - $20 pair
    S13 Rear Toe Rod - Stock - $20 pair
    s13 rear subframe WITH SOLID BUSHINGS INSTALLED - Best mod I did after coilovers/diff. Why mess with all the hassle? Drop your frame, swap everything on mine, and put it back same day. - $150
    Whiteline adjustable Rear Sway Bar - has 3 adjustment settings. Flat Out! - $180
    Rear 5 lug hubs - stock nissan z32, mileage unknown, feel fine. - $45 each
    Front strut tower bar - spray painted over it flat black, underneath is red ends and silver cross bar - $45
    Rear strut tower bar - powdercoared black ends and silver crossbar (not ghetto painted like front) - $40
    Nismo front lower control bushings - harder than stock, no greasing craplike urethane, 100% badass - $30
    s13 stock front knuckles - $40 pair
    s13 4 lug front hub - found one, pretty sure I have 2 - $15 each
    Wheel studs - pressed out of hub for spares just in case - ask


    Front z32 calipers - 26mm version (for more spoke clearance and could run deeper rims), rebuilt with all new hardware when I bought them. Will come with used old rotors if youd like - $180
    SPL parts front stainless braided brake lines for s13 with z32 calipers - $45
    SPL parts rear stainless braided brake lines for s13 with z32 calipers - $45
    Rear z32 caliper - bought used, worked fine - $100
    Stock s13 coupe brake booster - I don’t know if there is slimmer, but this seems pretty damn slim to me - $45
    Austrailian GTR/z32 brake master cylinder - lines come out the other way for RHD. THIS POINTS THE LINES AWAY FROM THE TURBO. Don’t mess with heat shields and other band-aid fixes, buy this. - $150
    Yellow brake master cylinder cap - came on a car I parted out, thought it looked cool. - $5 or free w purchase over $50

    Attain 5 lug front hubs - ~5000 miles, feel great, nice and tight. Bought new, came with bearings pressed in - $325
    Rear 5 lug hubs - stock nissan z32 from na model (works w s13 axles), mileage unknown, worked fine no play. - $100
    Gorilla lug nuts for nissan - have 2 sets that were combined to 1, so there is 10 blue, 10 black, and a couple spares of both colors - $30
    Mustang 03 cobra style replica front rims + Tires - 17x9 +26 Black with Dunlop Direzza Z1, great tire, discontinued (I believe?) a lot of tread left 235/40/17 - $300
    Mustang replica rear 03 cobra deep dish rims w/ lip - 17x10.5 I have 4 of these, 2 are brand new in box, 2 have tires on them. These are standard silver but with the back/inside of rim is charcoal color (including sides of spokes) they called it anthracite machined look? - $325 pair w tires 245/40/17, or $225 for pair w/o tires
    Weds Sport SA70 - FORGED 17x9, +20 IIRC, bronze color, pair only unfortunately. Good cheap forged fronts (or rears). - $350 pair
    Spare drift tires - slightly used, all 245/40/17 - $50 each

    D-Max Silvia conversion hood - metal latch attachment was bent before I got it, I put aerocatch locking hood pins on it. - $350
    Silvia Passenger Headlight - inside mounting good, ouside missing bottom of 2 bolts - $35
    Silvia Drivers Side Headlight - outsiude missing top bolt, inside missing lower chunk of plastic mounts with top only. - $35
    Silvia Corner Lights - I have 2 pairs, but theyre beat up/cracked/etc. I think you could maybe make 1 good set? If interested Ill get pics/post specifics
    89-91 s13 yellow signal lights - needed for silvia bumper - $25
    Version Select Body Kit - for s13 silvia. Has front/rear bumper, side skirts, and lower door covers. GP Sports copy, painted with flake and a lot of clear, be prepared to use a DA sander. Front bumper is split in 2, will need to be re-glassed. - $280
    Silvia metal fenders - body line shaved, bought these cheap, used a lot of bondo to smooth everything out. $25 for the pair
    S13 Shaved doors w/ SPAL USA Shaved-40 Poppers - door poppers not installed, but will come with them. Doors have power windows w/ glass. - $125 all
    Door cards/skins/whatever you call them - s13 w power windows, some have a little dust oversprayish stuff. It came off of other parts with some effort, but I'm too lazy to clean these since I havent used them. Reflected in price. - $35
    Carbon fiber F1 style mirrors - bought used off ebay, has carbon fiber plate to mount to door. Will include the s13 power inside inserts (flush and clean w/o manual mirror lever) - $120
    Fender Flares - x4 (front and rear) "Bubble style" - $130
    Fender Flares - x2 (rear only) standard style, one has small crack, less than 1" - $60
    S13 HATCH REAR LIGHTS, CENTER, AND BLACK METAL PANEL - mint, and the black metal panel will look good with any color car. Sold as a set (cause I need it all gone!) - $75
    S13 Coupe rear tail lights - I have 2 pairs, no scratches/etc. - $35
    Trunk lid - shaved, but paint is peeling in 1 corner. You will have to sand down the paint to re-spray anyway, but it is taken into consideration for price. - $40
    Front bumper support s13 - stock, uncut/modded - $35
    s13 coupe rear part that goes under rear window - $15
    White Door Handle Set w Keys - not perfect but all there - $35
    s13 popup headlight motors - I don’t know why I kept these, L+R, - $10
    Complete Drivers Side Pop-up Headlight - Grey - $15
    Liscense plate lights - stock s13 coupe, white metal, has pigtail cut above connector (to use if making your own harness, wire in with running lights) Planned on wiring them into my car but said F-it - $25
    B-Pillar covers - I have 4 - $15 each or $25 pair
    FOGLIGHTS - I don’t know who left these in my garage, maybe theyre from s14? Or some weird s13 japan thing? They appear brand new and are in a japanese box - $55

    Nex FRP bucket race seat - non reclinable, black on black. Great for average and larger people. Fits me perfect, so that’s why I priced it high (don’t really wanna get rid of it) - $250
    FRP "skinny" bucket race seat - bought from a group buy on zilvia, thought it was the same as my Nex, but its definitely for Japanese skinny dudes (I'm 6'3" 250lb). Comes with brackets to bolt to floor or aftermarket rails. I lost the pad closest to edge of seat (closest to under knees). My buddy used this in a pinch, and didnt notice any discomfort not having it.
    Stock s13 passenger seat - $50
    G-Force 5-point Cam-lock seat harness - Cam lock is sweet! Blue belt color. Need to be "refreshed" or whatever to make them legal, they are out of date. Never checked at the event I went to a couple years ago, and not for my buddy recently, so whatev, they work great. - $100 each or $180 pair
    4 point bolt in roll cage - bolts on top of rear seat pan (not floor pan) and to strut towers (not wheel wells) to actually improve rigidity, and a tall person can use it without fear of hitting their head. Will probably require modification to rear firewall (mines removed) to pass through. Great safety insurance, and necessary if you're running harnesses and race seats. Unpainted, made of whatever size legal DOM tubing. - $350 obo
    Modded Dash - un-cracked, but modded to be able to remove it without having to remove anything else. Will come with the plastic dash part that was cut out of it (so you can mount the gages and everything to that, which bolts to crossbar) - $45
    Spare dash - un-cracked, has some overspray from previous owner, was told it would wipe off (maybe with goo gone/paint thinner/acetone/some other chemical?). - $100
    Gauge holder plate for gauge cluster - custom made to fit in place of stock cluster, with LED turn signal and high beam indicators, mild steel painted black, to house tach and 6 guages. $25
    Autometer Sport Comp Monster Tachometer - for 8000 rpm - $145
    VDO Gas level gauge - to work with nissan s13 stock in tank fuel level sender. Black face, black bezel, white letters, red needle - $20
    VDO Volt meter - Black face, black bezel, white letters, red needle - $20
    SUNPRO Mechanical Water temp - 100 to 250F, black surround, black face, red needle, white lettering - $20
    Snap Top brand marine group 24 battery box - had to have a battery box to be "legal", this was a cheap one that fit my battery. Drilled for vent tube per rules. - $15
    Plastic to cover carpet/rockers/bottom door sills - stock - $10 pair
    Door cards/skins/whatever you call them - s13 w power windows, some have a little dust oversprayish stuff. It came off of other parts with some effort, but I'm too lazy to clean these since I havent used them. Reflected in price. - $35
    door handle surrounds/cups for door - $10
    Large plastics behind seats with rear arm rest notches - $40 pair
    A piller plastics - Greyblack - $10
    s13 Coupe headliner - grey, no sunroof, not dinged up, but not clean due to sirty fingers moving it around the garage - $25
    Black center counsel /armrest - $25
    ECU left pass kick panel - dark blue, cover that ecu don’t let it get hurt! - $15
    Stock gauge cluster surround with hazard buttons, change holder, etc. Black - $15
    S13 center dash trim radio HVAC surround - black no cracks, has the shift pattern on it, clean - $35
    2x s13 steering wheels -both are black w cruise, one is on wheel, one is on horn pad - $15
    stock s13 seat sliders - was gonna use for nex seat but bolted it to the floor instead - $10
    momo seat sliders (came with my nex seat but I never used them) - $35 pair
    stock s13 seatbelts - fronts that go in door and rear buckles? Or maybe these were the buckles from the seats? - 5$
    Defrost Vents - Clean uncracked from top of dash - $15
    Steering column surround - black, clean, - $10
    Dome light - for w/o sunroof, from s13 coupe (if it makes a diff), gray - $10
    HVAC plastic connectors to vents (behind dash) - $5
    Glove box/frame/light - $30
    sun visors - grey - $10 each
    Kenwood KDC-217 head unit - $25
    metal gas tank cover for trunk - still has rubber grommet in it for wires - $5
    Stock Radio/under storage bin WITH side brakets unbent - $35
    extra set of side brackets for stock underbin/radio - $15


    EZ2Wire Chassis Harness - currently installed in my car. Plug and play for s13 coupe with silvia front. All the basics + power windows + heat/Fan, wipers, etc. Currently for stock nissan ecu (wired per oem), but can easily be adapted for stand alone. This saves alot of weight in the chassis, and makes diagnosing problems simple. Not to mention it took me a ALOT of time to read schematics, solder, etc. It is still in car, so I'd like to give a brief tutorial how/what everything is before I pull it out. I will include all my wiring schematics. - $550
    KA engine harness - with all the BS cut out. Used with chassis harness above, and fully welded intake mani. - $75
    Uncut s13 KA engine harness - I thought maybe my cut harness was messed up, bought this, but then went back and rewired the ecu stuff to oem and it fired right up. Problem was operator error, go figure. Came off a running engine, harness is suprisingly clean. - $135
    Enthalpy e85/93 octane tune - switchable, s13 ecu, for z31 turbo (but I sent it back 2x for him to richen it up), cams, 850's or whatever my injectors are (sent him my sheet), if your serious I'll discuss thoroughly with you - $325 obo
    ECU mount tabs for s13 - $30
    ECU mount tabs for s14 - $30
    Full tub of s13 chassis harnesses, choped with sections removed. Basically a s13 wiring lump of scrap. You can salvage colored wires, fuse block, relay, whatev to make your new harness. - $45
    Super SAFC - not the 2, the 1, with knobs for selected rpms. Got in trade to make up for getting ripped off. Never used it, so I duno condition. - $45
    Greddy Profec - B spec 2 boost controller - $175


    Motor Stuff (everything besides built block)
    Trust intercooler - originally for GTR, great for mid mount setup. Was hit in lower center, I boostleak tested afterwards to 25psi (could have gone higher but I only run 15psi). Core 15.5"x10"x4", end tank to end tank 22". - $150
    PRC aluminum radiator - from nascar/circle track shop. Dual pass. THIS THING IS SICK! Has internal oil cooler opposite the inlet/outlet. 3" thick, ~27.5" wide x 15" tall, fits snugly between s13 frame rails. I welded "U" shaped bracket to each frame rail and lined with foam to support the rad. Has water temp sender bung at outlet, and 1/8npt on top for coolant swirl pot expansion tank. WOULD PEFER TO SELL AS PAIR WITH FANS - $295 or $250 w fan
    Stock metal radiator top brackets -$5
    Taurus fan - Completely sealed to radiator, 2 bolts removes fan out the top. Lexan strip covers the gap at bottom, bolted with gasket sealer. Wooden mount covers top to seal it up. Works excellent, clears OEM hood. WOULD PREFER TO SELL WITH RAD - $70 or $50 w fan
    N62 Maf Aluminum billet housing w N62 MAF installed - for blow through setups. - $175
    N62 Maf with flange cut of for 3" straight thru - to mount as pull through with cone filter. - $50
    Swirl pot expansion tank for cooling system - continuously bleeds cooling system, this should be highest point in system. ~8.5" overall, canister 2.5"x5.5". 2x inputs at top, return from bottom, and overflow from cap. Some knicks from a blade from previous owner, does not affect function. - $75
    z32 fuel filter - about 3000 miles, ran with e85, *this is not from the original switch to e85, this is the replacement I put in after ~2000 miles* - $10
    OEM s13 Fuel Filter - new in Nissan box - $10
    Modded Intake manifold - fully welded shut every possible boost leak source. Upper mani is port matched. Super easy to remove. No EGR/IACV/PCV/nothing else. Has original nipple for brake booster remaining, that's it for vacuum (I Tee'd the booster line to support vacuum block). Coolant nipple for throttle body also welded shut. 1/8npt elbow to barb fitting in place of bleeder valve for swirl pot. Hot/cold dummy thermostat sensor for gauge cluster was replaced with npt bung for mechanical water temp sensor. Nissan ecu thermostat bung still in place. It is drilled/tapped 1/8 npt for coolant feed line, will come with plug in it (my turbo was only oil, but did this in case I went BB in future). Idle is set with adjustment screw at throttle body. Comes with plastic spacers for fuel rail and rubber donuts for injector bosses. - $220
    Golden eagle vacuum block - 6 x 1/8npt bungs on front for easy hook up of additional lines. I ran 1 line in from manifold, then 4 out to boost gauge, bov, fpr, and wastegate. Super clean and eliminates headaches - $35
    Stock S13 intake manifolds - I have 2, with sensors and all stock stuff - $45
    S14 upper intake manifold - a friend practiced tig'ing on some of the runners, he chose to tig a dick shape, and some other lines. Enjoy! -$10
    OEM Thermostat - bought brand new from dealership as insurance, used for a couple pulls that's it. Great insurance everything is reading correctly. - $25
    Nylon intake manifold gasket - it is re-usable, which is great when your manifold can be removed as easily as mine. - $30
    SARD 850cc side feed injectors - Actual flow avg 928cc/min. Had them cleaned and flow tested at Deautchworks (report included). Will come still in KA fuel rail with FPR. Originally for Sti, so I will include the plugs w/ pigtail. Used ~5 pulls. - $450
    Modded PCV manifold - drilled/tapped with largest barbed hose fitting possible - in case of excessive blowby with removed ports on bottom of intake mani. For "atmospheric" PCV setup. - $55
    Modded Water/Cooland block off plate for water return- has normal return from heater hose, then drilled tapped with bung for swirl pot return, and 1/8npt for turbo water return (currently plugged since my turbo was only oil cooled)
    Greddy cast T3 turbo manifold - with 38mm external wastegate flange welded to bottom. Super strong and reliable because its cast. I was willing to sacrifice a couple top end HP for the reliability (and it picks up a tiny bit of hp down low over tubular) - $225
    Turbosmart 38mm wastegate - used for ~5 pulls, excellent condition. Has 1 bar spring. - $225
    38mm dump tube for waste gate - I boogerwelded this shit together and thought it was funny, maybe you can use it if you buy the mani, or chop/re-weld it. - $15
    Z31 T3 turbo gasket - this thing is the most badass gasket I have ever seen. Got it from a friend, had unknown miles, worked fine. Things beastly, seriously.
    Z31 t3 Turbo - Rebuilt/modded?? bought unused from a local dude (was gonna use it on SR). Has 5 bolt ford style T3 turbone hosing. Said they did something with the bearings and changed one of the wheels? Cant confirm but I put down 250hp wheel on 7psi, on a dyno that supposedly read a little low. I ran a couple pulls at 1 bar on the new setup and it ripped, never dyno'd it. Met the original guy that had the turbo shop (through friend) said they ued to modify them for volvos, ran them at 19psi. This is from the 1 year thats oil cooled not water cooled(more desirable, no water lines to mess with). About 5000 miles on it, paid $350 in 2003. - $225 obo
    S13 OEM Distributor - New OEM cap and rotor from dealership (OEM has bigger contacts than aftermarket), will allow use of external coil (if coming from s14, otherwise stock). - $65
    S13 external ignition coil - Had a MSD blaster and sold it, these are better. I have 3 available. - $20
    BWD s13 dizzy cap - PN C735P new in box, there are 2 different types of cap or something? This has 5th plug for external dizzy, so should be for s13 - $15
    OEM s14 dizzy cap - $15
    Magnecore KV85 Competition Spark plug wires - absolute best plugs you can buy for KA24DE, for sure. Used for ~5 pulls, did not use coil wire. Get kenne bell boost-a-spark and gap those plugs. Comes in original box. - $95
    BWC Spark Plug Wires - Blue, came on a used motor I bought, full s13 set with coil wire. -$25
    MSD long coil wire - custom made, to mount coil on firewall and reach the dizzy. I know this can lead to decreased performance, that’s why I got the best plug wires I could find. Makes for a much cleaner setup. Planed to get kenne belle boost-a-spark, gap out the plugs, and let'rr rip! $25
    Oil cooler - from Nascar/Circle track shop. 11"x6"x2"thick, mounting tabs on side, an fittings on top - $45
    Custom engine mounts - THESE ARE BADASS! Replace entire braket assembly and bolt directly to block. RAISES ENGINE - Oil pan is now higher than the crossmember so it cant get damaged. Can swing out of way to get engine close then swing them down to drop it in. $175
    Walbro fuel pump - this is the 255LPH or whatever is the common one. - $50
    Stock s13 KA block - no head/nothing. Been disassembled, but crank is still in it. I had 2 blown up stock motors, but I don’t remember how this one popped (one overboosted right away, other ran lean and popped) - $25
    Spare s13 KA head - cams out, everything else there. All original caps (important because these don’t transfer head to head). I have buckets and shims in a bag. - $75
    Power steering reservoir - stock s13 - $10
    s13 hi pressure power steering line - I have a couple - $45
    s13 Power steering pump - I have a couple - $40
    RX7 FC coolant overflow tank - stock - $15
    Turbo oil line & adapter from block - with feed line to go under the block and up to turbo. There is a union under the block (so its actually 2 lines connected, but perfect length with adequate slack) it is bspt to npt adapter, T, and 90deg adapter facing down to line. Oil pressure sensor goes in T facing straight down, did this so mass of sensor is closer in to block causeing less torque on fittings (therefore less chance of breakage) - $65
    2.5" inlet cone filter - with little mini middle inlet filter, I duno what you call those. Its red, and brand new. - $20
    3" cone air filter - same as above, but blue and with 3"inlet. This one is used, I got it from a friend. - $5
    Xcessive Cast Oil Sump with Greddy SR20 Baffled Oil Pan - no knockoffs here, not looking to separate, for a KA enthusiast. - $450
    Crank Scraper - bought used but don’t know the brand - %50
    2x Oil Pan w welded bung 90 fitting and AN line to turbo - one has a broke 90 deg fitting and welded more forward (no AC), the other 90deg is still in tact and bung welded farther back to clear AC. - $65 each
    3A racing 3" to 4.5" muffled exhaust tip - has perforated holes with glass pack behind it, appears to be stainless inside with chromated outside. - $15
    Full 3" exhaust system - galvanized tubing that I bought and pie cut an entire exhaust. Tucks above frame rail the entire length of car, notched (actually just bfh clearanced) around diff. Was one of my first welding projects, welds are fine enough but look like shit and would probably leak if it werent straight through with 2 resonators. Copied from old friend with eclipse, actually sounds sick. Like amazing. Was told by a couple people best sounding KA they ever heard. Well complimented with dump, but originally had return line from wg, so there is a 38mm flange in dp currently blocked off. All other flanges are 3bolt. Rear mounting around subframe is strong and perfect (redid it), but redid trans ex mount w/z32 trans (custom crossmember). This exhaust will take some welding, and its heave as shit (good thing s13 is lite), but its easy to do, forgiving, tucked up and clearanced so you can scrape frame not exhaust, cheap, sounds sick, and roughed in. Long description due to man hours. $200 with all the heat wrap, $150 without
    T3/T4 Gasket - $5
    38mm wg gasket - $5 or free w other purchase
    SR20 ex gasket (I think cause it has round holes, but could be KA) had a kink but not across cyl, free with gaskets above - $5
    OBX KA ex gasket set? - pretty sure, appears to be KA w square holes, and 2 bolt flange - $10
    Fuel Rail w fpr - I have 2, with caps removed and included, but you will need new screws for the caps (the phillip head always gets messed up) - $10
    Engine mount - stock but good condition - $20
    Mr. Gasket Copper Exhaust Gasket - used for 5 pulls - $20
    s13 oil pickup - $15
    s14 oil pickup - $15
    Starters x2 - work fine - $35
    ARP Head Studs - bought before I got the built engine, used? But look super clean, in box, bag for nuts/washers are opened. - $60
    Nissan OEM Spark Plugs - x4 new in box - pn 22401-1p115 - $10

    Built Engine
    "AMS built ka24de long-block motor" - I am 3rd owner, but without receipts. I had oil pan off, has eagle rods, forged pistons, I can see where weight was removed from crank to balance the assembly (so I do believe it was at least rebuilt professionally) Appears to be the old 8.8:1 compression AMS kit. Was told head was new/rebuilt, I personally checked clearance of shims and all are spot on. I compression/leakdown tested it, I forget the numbers (Ill do it again shortly), but IIRC compression for all 4 cylinders close together, leak down was like 85% or something. Basically planned to run it for a season then re-ring it and throw a Felpro HG in it (heard alot of bad about the Cometics). Also, I drilled/tapped the side of the block for oil return, so I could run higher capacity w/o worry about return from turbo. Dont know if this is good or bad, but with stock size ARP head studs cant really go much over 450-500 wheel, so its structurally sound. Has large brass fitting jb welded in and inside was shaved flush/cleaned.
    Forged pistons (I assume 8.8:1 Arias becuase of the old rebuild kit, but cant see any name)
    Eagle rods
    Balanced crank
    ARP hardware - rods, mains, headstuds
    Cometic MLS head gasket
    rebuilt head - *cant 100% confirm w reciepts, but appears to be. Everything looks new and lash in spec.
    Kelford Cams (newer version with higher lift, better for turbo)
    JWT cam gears
    Oil pump and water pump appear new, both worked great.
    $950 with stock s13 cams/gears or $1350 with kelford/jwt


    red socket organizer for tool box - cut up into 2 sections because my drawers werent deep enough - Free with purchase over $50, or 5$ + ship
    FR Sport Liscense plate frame - Free with purchase over $50, or 5$ + ship
    Silver Quick Release - China, has some play to it, I upgraded - Free with purchase over $150, or 15$ + ship
    Freddy BOV type S copy - China, o-ring seal thing fell down on plunger so you wil have to take it apart and put back together - Free with purchase over $150, or 15$ + ship

    Last edited by egan; 02-13-2016 at 03:20 PM. Reason: stupid html - I DONT UNDERSTAND COMPUTERS

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Clinton Twp, Michigan
    Damn I want that flywheel! was going to pick one up when taxes came in, if you still have it in a few weeks its mine!
    -Alex: XceedSpeed's #1 Lady'sMan
    Boosted 240sx | 93 Taurus LX

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